Shotover / Deep Creek to Edith Cavell Bridge (Shotover Gorge), IV
From the gold rushes of the 1860s to the tourism boom of the 1990s, New Zealand's richest river has been exploited for over a century. Signs of this are apparent along the whole journey.
The late 1800s saw gold fever hit the Shotover region, or Molyneux as it was then known. Much early river diversion and tunnel digging was done at this time. Legends abound of the hardy souls who toiled through freezing winters waist deep in the frigid water searching for the elusive strike. Temperatures get so cold that in the winter there are some 'seeps' from the walls that have been visited by ice climbing enthusiasts from Queenstown.
Gold is still being extracted ounce by ounce from the river, but most capital return comes from the surface of the river these days. The Queenstown tourism machine works the river's scenery, whitewater and history mostly through rafting and jet boating. Horse riding, historic sightseeing, parapenting, mountain biking, scenic flights and a plethora of other activities complete the menu for visitors to the region. These bring in far more gold than the river could ever yield.
The main gorge carves through outcrops of schist, while fine mica gives the river its silty colour. This stuff is gritty, gets through everything and is hard on contact lenses. The water is very cold, even in summer, so it's wise to wear a winter set of gear on this river.
After waving 'auf wiedersehn', or 'sayonara', to the rafters at the Deep Creek put in, the water is class II for most of the gorge with fun play holes and awesome scenery.
The action is in the final 1.5km through a section of rapids called The Mother, which doesn't announce itself in any particular way. Watch for a narrowing in the gorge, the disappearing horizon line and a small fin of rock. This is Sharks Fin and it is a shadow of its former appearance due to river changes and the formation of a new rapid just downstream called Miners Revenge. Scouting through The Mother is easiest on the left with an obvious trail used by rafters. The rapids are difficult to differentiate but the rafting promo pamphlets (they must be true!) say they go in order of: Sharks Fin, Miners Revenge, Germans, Anvil, Toilet and Pinball. Then down to the Oxenbridge Tunnel or Mother-in Law.
The Oxenbridge Tunnel was chiselled, cut and blasted from solid rock by the Oxenbridge brothers in an attempt to redirect the river and expose whatever treasures may have lain in the riverbed. It was an idea that didn't work but paddlers now must contend with the brothers' legacy. Paddle into the black hole in the cliff. If you can't fit, the river is too high! (If this is your first time on the river ask the rafters if they are running the tunnel.) Once inside, aim for the white blob of light and brace on the right. Water boils up from the right wall and tends to push you into the undercut left wall. Keep your boat pointed straight. People have broached in this tunnel and swum out without their boats. Always keep in the back of your mind that the light at the end of the tunnel could be an oncoming train!
Upon exiting the tunnel you're on the runway to the Cascade, another artificial rapid. The only stipulation on this one is to stay upright. The rocks below water are sharp and will slice you and your gear very nicely.
The Mother-in-law option follows the natural bed of the river to the left of the tunnel. It has a sharp drop at the top that pushes hard into rocks downstream. Once clear of this drop it is all over.
To get to the take out from Queenstown: head to Arthur's Point via Gorge Rd. Immediately before crossing the Edith Cavell bridge turn left onto a gravel road. Follow this for 600m to the bottom of Cascade rapid.
To get the put in: head back across the bridge. Continue east for a couple of kilometres to the junction signposted: Coronet Peak, Skippers Canyon. Turn left and climb for 4km. Turn left at the next sign to Skippers Canyon. Turn left again onto the gravel road. This road is very rough and windy. Rental cars are not insured on this road--bad luck. After 9.5km of slow driving, allowing rafting vehicles to pass whenever they want, you will arrive at the Deep Creek put in.
This section appears in New Zealand Whitewater, 4th edition, 2006 on p260.
